Today, I respected my rule that 6′ waves win out over trading. That hurricane in the gulf is sending a groundswell in our direction, and I just had to be on it. I put stops all over the place, forgot the markets, and surfed all day. The waves were just sooooo good. I haven’t seen a decent groundswell in awhile, and it was nice to be all over it. I surfed for at least 6-7 hours, and John joined me for about 3 hours. It was pretty good, and I brought out a longboard, and my i-Pod. I listened to some jazz, and rode some serious waves, with a few of my friends. We surfed until our arms became noodles, then sat in the parking lot of the jetty, talking story. There were minimal crowds, the air temp was 90 and the water was 88 degrees. The water gets hot in the gulf, and there was no cooling refreshment. However, the great waves made the lack of refreshment worth it. Now, I’m chilling, nursing a sunburn that has gotten worse, and am going to soak in the cool tub. I might go out later tonight for a midnite swim. I might take John over to a friend’s house, and have a few beers…..I just don’t know.
My sister is moving back to her house, telling me her job here is done. I’m gonna miss her.
There is some more art on the horizon.
Jeff
I liked your post over on Daily Speculations…very funny about the guys misleading on the surf report.
Comment by Tyler Lang — July 23, 2008 @ 3:54 am
An awesome rule. I think I need a similar one for skiing. “Sorry, students, it dumped 18 inches last night…you aren’t gonna get no teachin’ today”
Comment by Dave Bacon — July 23, 2008 @ 3:12 pm
Dave,
Have you tried snowboarding?
You ought to enact an 18″ powder rule, no exceptions…..sometimes, you’ve just gotta have fun.
Jeff
Comment by masteroftheuniverse — July 24, 2008 @ 1:31 am
Many a time I have thought about going snowboarding, but when I get close to the day of reckoning, my skis just call out to me. (Especially the pair I won at a Warren Miller film, using the crumpled entry form method
)
I’ve only surfed a few times, but the words surfers, skiers, and snowboarders use to describe their epic days are very similar. I’m pretty sure if I lived where the ocean wasn’t two hours away I’d quickly morph into a surfer. (Strangely there are three surf shops within a mile of our house in Seattle.)
Comment by Dave Bacon — July 25, 2008 @ 3:30 pm